June 24, 2019
I wouldn’t say that we’ve stalked the local adegas waiting for the latest releases of the DOC Colares wines, but we did make a fortuitous stop last week to snag the certain vintages at the Adega Regional de Colares prior to our most recent trip back to the U.S. So we were happy to find a couple of our favorite everyday table wines, the Chão Rijo branco and tinto, in their most current versions as well. The first of the two we’ll talk about this week.
The 2018 branco, a blend of Malvasia, Galego Dourado, Jampal, and Fernão Pires grapes, reads like a sheet of music from the cool summer last year–with one blast of heat–makes for a tart, crisp white. It has a golden yellow color, and a bit of bright abacaxi on the nose. The gooseberries on the palate remind me of picking them in childhood wanders, and the splash of lime and some flowers make for a more interesting flavor set than might be first expected. Try with a half dozen oysters.
Vintage & Producer: 2018 Adega Regional de Colares
From: VR Lisboa
Style: Crisp, bright white
Varieties: Malvasia, Galego Dourado, Jampal, and Fernão Pires
Price: €4,20 at the local adega and supermarkets around Lisboa
June 17, 2019
When we visited Casa Relvas, in the heartland of the Alentejo, earlier this spring, we tasted a light rosé under their Herdade de São Miguel label. To go with our festa-driven sardine fest this past weekend, we picked up another, heartier rosé from the herdade, the 2018 Insólito.
What makes the difference between the two? The addition of the Castelão grape, for one. Often used in wines of Alentejo and Palmela regions, this dark grape lends its rich coloring to the finished wine, which shows loads of strawberries on the nose and palate. It’s off-dry, with a deep salmon color–just the trick to stand up to the marvelously plump grilled sardinhas of Lisboa in June.
Vintage & Producer: 2018 Casa Relvas
From: VR Alentejano
Style: Rich, off-dry rosé
Varieties: Aragonez, Castelão, and Touriga Nacional
Price: €6 at the local supermercado
June 10, 2019
Cooking up some sardines or ribs or bifes on the grill for Portugal Day? We had an easy red wine from VR Alentejano a couple of weeks ago that will go really well with most anything you sear over fire in honor of the June 10th holiday. The Ardila Tinto 2017, made by Herdade dos Arrochais, is a blend of Alicante Bouschet, Alfrocheiro, Aragonez, and Trincadeira, mostly classic grapes of the region.
As you might guess from those varieties, it’s an intense purple color, with a nose full of blackberry fruit. There’s more juicy, young purple fruits on the palate, with dark cherries too. It has soft tannins, and a soft back end when opened, but it starts to improve as it breathes in a bit.
Vintage & Producer: 2017 Herdade dos Arrochais
From: VR Alentejano
Style: Young, fruity red
Varieties: Alicante Bouschet, Alfrocheiro, Aragonez, and Trincadeira
Price: About €5 in the local supermercado
June 3, 2019
When we brought the bottle of Lago Cerqueira Sauvignon Blanc 2017 to the checkout at the Atlántico supermercado in Colares a few days ago, the young man behind the counter complimented us on the choice–“It’s wonderful!” he said. After enjoying it and comparing its style to that of other Sauvignon Blancs we’ve tasted worldwide, we can now agree.
It’s a new offering from Calçada Wines, based in the Vinho Verde DOC. Because the variety is not a recognized DOC casta, it carries the VR Minho label. But its pale lemon yellow color and aromas of gooseberry and elderflower mark it instantly as a true representation of the grape. With more white flowers on the palate, plus lime leaves and a lemon squeeze, it’s a refreshing, crisp white to enjoy with oysters or other mariscos.
Vintage & Producer: 2017 Calçada Wines
From: VR Minho
Style: Crisp, citrusy white
Variety: Sauvignon Blanc
Price: about €5 at the local supermercado