We drove right past the sign for the Quinta da Boavista—amazingly so, considering its prominent display on the wall along the N115. But with the quinta’s scale hidden well by those same walls, it didn’t seem to us that Casa Santos Lima could be tucked into that corner so neatly.
But we knew we were close: Not only did the navigation say so, but we’d been surrounded by vines for the last kilometer, it seemed. We drove on the Rota Quintas do Alenquer—as this national road is appropriately named. Now that we know the Alenquer region a bit better, it all makes sense. The region makes for a marvelous place from which to dive deeply into the wines of Portugal.
And Casa Santos Lima takes its place as the benevolent leader in volume and portfolio. In fact, we discovered that the quinta not only vinifies accessible, affordable wines from its neighboring vineyards, but also features projects from five regions around Portugal—creating a one-stop shop for those interested in the country’s wines.
A lineup of the LAB series, which is mostly exported to the US 
The tasting area holds a lot of the quinta’s history, including these monthly wine reviews of Portugal from 1897
That has been Casa Santos Lima’s growth strategy now for several years. Indeed, they produce primarily for the export market—and most of that goes to the United States. I first came to know the company as many Americans do: I saw a dog on a bottle and I was drawn to it. Well, I say that tongue in cheek, as I’m not driven to certain wines by branding alone. But the LAB series of branco, tinto, and rosé were well made, inexpensive, and well placed in the larger wine stores where I shopped five years ago, before I moved to Portugal.
Now, you’re just as likely to have heard of Casa Santos Lima for its other well-known tinto, the Colossal Reserva—a berry-filled red that won high esteem from the folks at Wine Spectator in 2017, and continues to serve as a good entry point for those intrigued by the Alenquer region—though it’s marked as a VR Lisboa wine, because of its inclusion of non-DOC grapes like Syrah.
The entrance to the modern main building at Casa Santos Lima in Alenquer 
Beautiful modern tiles evoke the region’s history at Casa Santos Lima
And you may have seen their vines as you’ve left the airport in Lisbon, upon your arrival into Portugal. As a way of marketing Lisbon wines to incoming tourists, the working vineyard lies on a hill across from the runways—and has not suffered from the proximity to airplanes, clearly.
The Santos Lima family began its winemaking in the region starting at the end of the 19th century; Maria João Santos Lima and José Luis Santos Lima Oliveira da Silva launched the wine business again in 1990, by replanting a large portion of the vines around the quinta. These vines, betweem 110 and 220 meters in elevation, sit about 25 km from the Atlantic Ocean, enjoying both its cooling effect and the warmer summers made possible by being a bit inland. Other regions where Casa Santos Lima continues its projects include Algarve, Alentejo, Vinho Verde, and Douro.
A vista to the south from the back patio of Casa Santos Lima near Aldeia Galega da Merceana 
Another view, to the east across the vines of Alenquer at Casa Santos Lima 
The barrel room at Casa Santos Lima provides for the aging of Alenquer wines
The tour for us stayed very personal, guided by a kind host through the modern equipment, mostly new since the 1990s, and the massive barrel room where many of the wines made locally age. Once back in the bright and glass-walled tasting area, she presented to us a selection of wines in the Prova Terroir, from vinho verde to deep red, surrounded by dozens and dozens of choices. And since our visit, we’ve had the opportunity to try even more wines from CSL’s staggering range.
The best part came when we chose a few bottles to take home. At the quinta, discounts allow you to pack up a couple of cases for impossibly low prices—so come prepared to stock up. We made the Porrais our house white for some time, and we’ve enjoyed the Confidencial and Colossal wines again and again since.
Quinta da Boavista, Aldeia Galega da Merceana
2580-081 Aldeia da Galega da Merceana, Portugal
GPS: 39° 4’12.01” N | 9º 7’1.13” W
+351 263 760 621 | +351 263 769 093
Tasting Notes: July 7, 2017
Pluma Vinho Verde 2015
From Trajadura, Loureiro, Arinto, and Avesso grapes. Green apple aromas and tastes. Petulant. Light fizz that stays crisp, with a hint of yeast on the palate. 10.5% abv.
Vintage & Producer: 2015 Casa Santos Lima
From: DOC Minho
Style: Light, crisp, sparkly white
Variety: Trajadura, Loureiro, Arinto, Avesso
Price: About €4,50 online
Porrais Douro Branco 2015
From Rabigato, Códega do Larinho, Viosinho, and Verdelho grapes. From a vineyard at 630 meters in the Douro valley. A hayloft scent, with golden currants and lemony zest on the palate. 12.5% abv.
Vintage & Producer: 2015 Casa Santos Lima
From: DOC Douro
Style: Medium bodied, citrusy white
Variety: Rabigato, Códega do Larinho, Viosinho, and Verdelho
Price: About €7,50 online
Al-Ria Rosé Algarve 2015
From Touriga Nacional and Syrah grapes. From a vineyard near Tavira in Algarve. Red fruits and lollipops on the nose and palate, but without the sweetness. A mineral streak. A deep salmon color, lovely in the glass. 13% abv.
Vintage & Producer: 2015 Casa Santos Lima
From: VR Algarve
Style: Fruity, lively rosé
Variety: Touriga Nacional and Syrah
Price: About €3 online
Monte das Promessas Alentejano 2014
From Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Petit Verdot, and Alicante Bouschet grapes. From vineyards in the Alentejo. Canela (cinnamon) on the nose with a ringing garnet color. Smoky bacon and red currants in the glass. 14% abv.
Vintage & Producer: 2014 Casa Santos Lima
From: VR Alentejano
Style: Fruity, smoky, rich red
Varieties: Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Petit Verdot, and Alicante Bouschet
Price: About €2,20 at the quinta in 2017; now about €8-9 online
Colossal Reserva Alenquer 2015
From Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Tinta Roriz, and Alicante Bouschet grapes. From vineyards near the quinta in the Alenquer DOC. Softer, more “purple.” Blackberry juice on the nose and palate. 14% abv. Tasted again in the bottle at home with similarly good impressions.
Vintage & Producer: 2015 Casa Santos Lima
From: VR Lisboa
Style: Fruity, soft, rich red
Varieties: Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Tinta Roriz, and Alicante Bouschet
Price: About €5 at the quinta in 2017; now about €8 at local supermercados
