The little beach town has changed since we first arrived–first driving through four summers ago. Praia das Maçãs, of course, has been a summer destination for an age, but new life infused into it in 2019.
We witnessed the first changes as the beach cleaning continued through the winter this year–at no point did we see the drifts of plastic and trash and bamboo pile up in the same manner that it did the first winter we lived there. And local groups attacked the small bits–like Plastic Sundays and scouting groups that use the beach for their camps.
A new playground sparks joy amongst young customers 
The former newsstand has evolved into a snack shack, with the dona still presiding
Next, the playground overlooking the beach had a facelift. New equipment replaced the old, and bright colors attracted new children to spend time there. Games still took place on the soccer field adjacent to it–but there was a less ad-hoc feeling about it all.
Finally, the old newsstand that had shuttered, where S picked up tobacco from time to time, came to life as a new snack shack. We sat and talked with the owners, a long-time dona and dono who presided over their new territory, seemingly pleased with the customers it brought in. We’ve had glasses of wine there, and wraps, and looked out over the beach from the tables.
The old wooden boardwalk has been replaced with something less frangible 
At low tide, new rocks emerge
And they’ve replaced the wooden boardwalk, which would steal away in sections during a super high-tide or tempesta, and put in its place a mat that won’t move–though it’s not as easy under our feet.
But the rocks don’t seem to change, though they are covered by sand and uncovered by waves. The sun sets, and the summer people go home. And all is well once again on the praia.
The sun sets at Praia das Maçãs on a clean beach and a town coming to life
Nice. The upside of tourism growth: Portuguese pride in their country. Just as with native products, the locals wait until foreigners want them before showing their own appreciation.