You hear the tram first, dog-like, at the edges of your hearing: the squeal of wheels along rusty tracks, the…
We completely missed the cues during our first summer in Praia das Maçãs. Granted, the town hadn’t advertised Nossa Senhora…
When I ran yesterday morning, I said hello to a neighbor, who answered my bom dia with a smile: “But,…
Portuguese is the fourth language I’ve made an attempt to learn. Though you could argue my fluency in English is…
The tomato plants form an impenetrable fortress against the back wall of our garden, but they also line the sides…
Of all the memories turning golden from my coming-of-age years, summer camp ranks near the top. I loved the weeks…
Last night marked the fourth summer solstice that I’ve spent in Portugal. Yes, three years ago in June, I started…
Saudade. The Portuguese have a word to explain perfectly the mourning I feel upon the suicide of Anthony Bourdain. Portugal’s…
We camped in woods filled with rosemary growing wild. We awoke to the bees rising in a buzz and wondered…
When I first looked at the house I’d move into in Portugal, the owner seemed relieved when I mentioned that…