You can see Spain from here, but the Rio Minho creates more than just a visible border. The vista from the patio at Quinta de Soalheiro allows you to witness the character of the Portuguese side of the river: the intense green of the forested hills and the dramatic folds of the land as the river carves through it. And, most importantly, the vines trellised everywhere your eyes rest—in both the traditional Vinho Verde high-pergola style and the modern low-trellised way, echoing vineyards in Burgundy.
The vista from the patio at Quinta de Soalheiro in Melgaço
The valley comprising the subregion of Monção and Melgaço in the Vinho Verde DOC is surrounded by mountains, creating a natural refuge, with Monte do Faro near Valença protecting the vines from ocean winds. The resulting weather means good solar intensity during summer days, balanced with colder nights moderated by the microclimate around the Minho. In fact, that sun inspired the quinta’s name, as soalheiro refers to the solar exposure of the land in the local dialect.
Looking to the north, with Spain in the distance 
Alvarinho grapes enjoy the sunny days and cool nights of the Minho 
Looking towards the east, towards the ocean about 60 km away
The soil, too, has a distinct quality, and the vineyards show it. Some are steeper, tracking up the hillsides, and many of the grapes come from various growers outside of the estate vines. For example, one wine, Granit, hails from vines at a slightly higher altitude, with more stone and less soil in the plots. But these tracts only run 200 meters up—so there’s not much difference in temperature—but the minerality still shows in the finished wine.
The white Alvarinho and Loureiro grapes, the stars of the Vinho Verde DOC, form the basis for most of the quinta’s current wines. The red grape, Vinhão, appears in a handful of recent experiments, including the Oppaco, the quinta’s first vinho tinto, a blend with Alvarinho and Pinot Noir. Sparkling rosé, or espumante, is made with Touriga Nacional and Alvarinho, and the still rosé is a blend of Pinot Noir and Alvarinho.
Tasting the new Oppaco tinto at Quinta de Soalheiro 
Soalheiro Oppaco 2015 Label
Margarida Fernandes, who organizes the marketing communications for Soalheiro, arranged our visit and tasting with us via email about two weeks in advance. Soalheiro asks that you become part of their online “Tribe” as you make plans for a tasting—and I say it’s well worth it, even if it feels for a moment like a promotional ploy. The frequent updates from the quinta helped me establish a familiarity with their culture that I might not have recognized in such a short time.
A review of older vintages at Soalheiro 
Margarida explains the bottling process at Quinta de Soalheiro 
A full lineup of Alvarinho wines and other delights at Quinta de Soalheiro’s loja
Also, once you’re in the Tribe, you can submit tasting notes and keep track of the vintages that you’ve enjoyed. It’s a great way for the quinta to gain direct feedback on its wines, and for you to feel invested in their future production. You can now arrange for your visit directly through the “Loja” area on the site; a variety of tasting experiences are available. Additionally, they now provide a special lunch at the affiliated Quinta da Folga for groups of 8 or more by prior arrangement.
João Antónion Cedeira planted Alvarinho vines here in 1974, and the first vintage came out in 1982—making Soalheiro the first quinta to brand an Alvarinho wine in Melgaço. The Cedeira family, with Maria Palmira Cedeira as its mãe (mother), continues to shepherd the quinta through its fourth decade—but the greater team is clearly critical to Soalheiro’s success.
Quinta de Soalheiro celebrated its 35 years in 2017 with events throughout the year—the quinta emotionally “belongs” to the local community, and it shows. The team has an active bent—the Minho and natural parks nearby offer an outstanding outdoor playground, and the “Soalheiros” make the most of it. In fact, you can choose an “adventure” experience in connection with the adega, including hiking, orienteering, or rafting, from the online loja as well.
Pinot Noir in Inox tanks from the 2017 vintage at Soalheiro 
The tinto blend of Alvarinho and Vinhão grapes ages in French oak barrels 
Walking amongst the barrels at Soalheiro
The expansion of their enotourism offerings comes in step with the increasing production driven by the quinta over the last decade. Production tops 300,000 bottles per year, according to our notes from Fernandes, and you can readily find the Soalheiro wines across Portugal and Europe. As they grow, they’re moving production out of the tightly packed manufacturing facility we toured in August 2017, and building onto those parts of the quinta.
The bottling line at Quinta de Soalheiro near Melgaço 
Bottles resting, aging, at Quinta de Soalheiro 
Soalheiro bottles its own production
Soalheiro began forays into organic winemaking in 2004, when its vines were certified organic. These vines (ten hectares were organic at the time of the 2017 harvest)—are owned by the quinta, along with the old vines that go into the Primeras Vinhas and Reserva wines. The Loureiro grapes in a couple of the blends come from vineyards near Ponte de Lima, to the south.
We tasted two of the organic wines during our visit—Fernandes warned us ahead of time that, because they were both unfiltered, they might be cloudier than the filtered wines that most consumers are accustomed to. Soalheiro’s Nature Pur Terroir is made without added sulfites (wines naturally have some sulfites that occur during the winemaking process), and the wine goes through a complete alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. The fine layer of sediment left in the bottle stays as a result of the winemaking process, and provides protection from oxidation.
Soalheiro Nature 2016 in the glass with the vista as a backdrop 
Part of the Terramatter wine completes its process in concrete eggs 
Soalheiro Terramatter showing hazy and lovely in the glass
The second organic wine, Terramatter, is also 100% Alvarinho, produced without filtering. However, the 2016 was harvested earlier, and underwent only a partial malolactic fermentation—with a portion in chestnut barrels, and, as we saw during our visit, another portion into a concrete egg. The early harvest translates into a slightly lower alcohol content compared to the Reserva (12,5% vs 13% abv), and a fresh, aromatic profile. We found the haziness in the glass didn’t detract at all from experiencing the wines—and both showed unique qualities we enjoyed.
Soalheiro continues to extend its reach, and explore further expressions of Melgaço terroir. In doing so, it leads others in showing what Alvarinho can be in Portugal: not just the light and fizzy vinho verde to enjoy on a summer day, but a complex fruit that picks up its essence from the sun, and the Minho.
Alvaredo . Melgaço 4960-010 Alvaredo
Tele: +351 251 416 769
Fax: +351 251 416 771
Email: [email protected]
Coordinates: 42.097446N, -8.309966E
Soalheiro Terramatter showing hazy and lovely in the glass 
Soalheiro Terramatter 2016 Label
Tasting Notes: August 24, 2018
Soalheiro Terramater 2016
Alvarinho unfiltered from the estate vineyards. Tropical fruits and fresh dough on the nose. Fresh pineapple and corn silk on the palate. Only some haze, with a lovely buttery mouthfeel. 12,5% abv.
Vintage & Producer: 2016 Quinta de Soalheiro
From: DOC Vinho Verde; Monção e Melgaço Subregion
Style: Unfiltered, fruity white
Variety: Alvarinho
Price: About €11 online
Soalheiro Primeras Vinhas 2016 Alvarinho
From the oldest vines (1974) on the quinta. Custard apple nose. The passionfruit flavors on the palate grow in the mouth. Clear, light in color. Makes a wonderful aperitif. 12,5% abv.
Vintage & Producer: 2016 Quinta de Soalheiro
From: DOC Vinho Verde; Monção e Melgaço Subregion
Style: Refershing, fruity white
Variety: Alvarinho
Price: About €15 online
Soalheiro Reserva 2016 at the quinta 
Soalheiro Reserva 2016 at the quinta
Soalheiro Reserva 2016
From various lots of estate vines. More tannins closer to its bottling, asking for food. Honeysuckle nose and young, fresh spice not yet integrated. Light tropical fruit on the palate. 13% abv.
Vintage & Producer: 2017 Quinta de Soalheiro
From: DOC Vinho Verde; Monção e Melgaço Subregion
Style: Floral and fruity white
Variety: Alvarinho
Price: About €24 online
Soalheiro Nature 2016 in the glass with the vista as a backdrop 
Soalheiro Nature 2016 Label
Soalheiro Nature Pur Terroir 2016
Organic, unfiltered wine from estate vineyards. Aromas of caramel, Marmite, and buttered toast on the nose, along with an undercurrent of shitake mushrooms. Much of this translates to the palate, along with a baseline minerality, making for an intriguing wine. 12,5% abv.
Vintage & Producer: 2016 Quinta de Soalheiro
From: DOC Vinho Verde; Monção e Melgaço Subregion
Style: Unfiltered, earthy white
Variety: Alvarinho
Price: About €16 online
Soalheiro Granit 2016
From hillside vineyard plots outside the estate. White peach and petrol on the nose, with minerals, and flint on the palate. Also reminded me of peach salad. Medium viscosity. 12,5% abv.
Vintage & Producer: 2016 Quinta de Soalheiro
From: DOC Vinho Verde; Monção e Melgaço Subregion
Style: Mineral-driven, fruity white
Variety: Alvarinho
Price: About €11 online
Soalheiro Allo 2016 Label
Soalheiro Allo 2016
From Alvarinho and Loureiro grapes. White flowers on the nose: lilies of the valley. Balanced acidity. Light fruit salad on the palate. Would be great with sushi. 11% abv.
Vintage & Producer: 2016 Quinta de Soalheiro
From: DOC Vinho Verde
Style: Floral and fruity white
Variety: Alvarinho and Loureiro
Price: About €5 online
Soalheiro Reserva 2016 
Soalheiro Reserva 2016 Label
Soalheiro 2016 Alvarinho Reserva
From the estate vineyards. Tasted at home after 15 months in cellar storage. Pale golden yellow, no legs. The 2016 Reserva shows off its aging in old oak barrels through lovely spice box aromas and flavors. I also found chermoya (custard apple) and kiwi on the nose, with green mango and golden pears on the palate. Lots of layers to this white, though its mouthfeel remains rather light. 13% abv.
Vintage & Producer: 2016 Quinta de Soalheiro
From: DOC Vinho Verde; Monção e Melgaço Subregion
Style: Complex, spicy white
Variety: Alvarinho
Price: About €24 online